Eateries of Yore

Restaurants that have survived 73 years of Independence…

Nothing thrives like good food. And nothing survives better. Over the last five years, I have seen innumerable eateries starting up, and beginning so well, looking so promising, and then eventually shutting down within a year or two. It’s not easy to survive in this field, with innumerable options available to the masses. Only the best can survive. This post is a tribute to those eateries that have survived 73 monsoons since independence and yet, haven’t lost their loyal patrons.

1. Tunday Kababi, Lucknow

TUNDAY KABABI

LUCKNOW

Awadh is famous for its cuisine. The armies of the nawabs of the yore couldn’t save their kingdom from the British Crown, but the royal chefs carefully saved the culinary secrets, and passed on their mysteriously wonderful recipes to their future generations, like a treasure from the past. One such recipe is that of the utterly silky, melt in the mouth Galouti Kababs that has made Tunday Kababi eatery in old Lucknow a must visit on the itinerary of the Who’s who of India.

Highly acclaimed for its exquisite Galouti kebabs, kormas and biryanis, Lucknow’s  Tunday Kababi eatery was established in 1905 by Haji Murad Ali, the one-armed star cook (‘Tunday’ is the vernacular term for a one armed person) of the Nawab of Oudh. The restaurant’s location and its facade is quite unassuming and isn’t indicative at all of the quality of food served here and the mass following it enjoys. The age-old intricate blends of spices to make its sensational non-vegetarian gourmet preparations is the family’s closely guarded secret.

2. Indian Coffee House, Kolkata

INDIAN COFFEE HOUSE

KOLKATA

Coffee houses have often been the hub of conversations. Many a revolutions have been brewed over a cup of coffee. Located in the heart of Kolkata’s academic hub, the Indian Coffee House on College Street has long been an intellectual hangout and meeting place for students (and ex-students) of the Presidency College and other institutions. Great personalities like Rabindranath Tagore, Amartya Sen, Manna Dey, Satyajit Ray, Ravi Shankar and several others frequented this place. Mutton cutlet and chicken kabirazi are the must haves on the still-very-cheap menu.

3. Karim’s, Old Delhi

KARIM’S

OLD DELHI

Located in the vicinity of Old Delhi’s grand Jama Masjid, the perennially over crowded Karim’s serves mouth watering recipes carried forward from the days of the Mughal empire. Established in 1913 by Haji Kareemudin, Karim’s has won multiple awards and many accolades for its lip-smacking non-vegetarian fair. The flagship items on the menu are the scrumptious Mutton Nihari and Chicken Jahangiri.

4. Leopold’s Cafe, Mumbai

LEOPOLD’S CAFE

MUMBAI

Leopold’s Cafe is located in Mumbai’s vibrant Colaba, a stone’s throw away from the iconic Gateway of India. Established in 1871, Leopold’s is one of Mumbai’s most iconic cafes frequented mostly by foreign tourists, and now bears the indelible marks of the 26/11 Mumbai attack. Carrying a remarkable ambience, the restaurant is always abuzz with people indulging in scrumptious meals that include everything from burgers with beer to decadent desserts.

5. Rayars Mess, Chennai

RAYAR’S MESS

CHENNAI

Rayars Mess serving fluffy idlis, crisp vadas, and scalding-hot degree coffee to its loyal customers as well as to many foodie visitors for just a few hours every day dates back to 1940s. Located in Mylapore, Chennai, this tiny eatery, by the virtue of its unbeatable hygiene and exceptional taste of food, draws food lovers from far off places.

6. Hari Ram & Sons, Allahabad

HARI RAM AND SONS

ALLAHABAD

Hari Ram and Sons – dating back to 1890 – is one of the oldest street food shops in Allahabad. The shop enjoys huge fan following for its delicious snacks made in pure ghee and lip-smacking chaat, palak ki namkeen, masala samosas, and khasta kachauri.

7. Dorabjee & Sons, Pune

DORABJEE & SONS

PUNE

A charming, old restaurant in Pune, Dorabjee and Sons was started by Dorabjee Sorabjee back in 1878. Initially a humble little tea stall, the eatery soon started serving traditional lunches that quickly became popular. A little restaurant with a simple exterior, Dorabjee and Sons uses time-tested recipes handed down through generations to create signature Parsi specialties such as Dhansak, Patrani Machchi and Salli Boti.

8. Nizam’s, Kolkata

NIZAM’S

KOLKATA

Who hasn’t savoured a Kathi Roll? The pioneers of Kathi Rolls – Nizam’s – was set up in 1932 by Raza Hassan Saheb who named the place after his only son. The story goes that one day a customer, a foreigner, was in a big hurry and he asked for something light, dry and minimally messy that he could take away quickly. The cook rolled up tender pieces of spiced up meat in a freshly fried paratha. Thus was born the kathi roll which has now attained an iconic status.

9. Pancham Puriwala, Mumbai

PANCHAM PURIWALA

MUMBAI

There’s no food like good food. Pancham Puriwala was set up over 150 years ago when its founder, Pancham came from Agra to Mumbai to try his luck selling savouries. His crispy golden puris were so popular with the locals that his shop survived and expanded over seven generations. This tiny, two storeyed eatery is always crowded with eager clientele clamoring for mouth watering delicacies that include khichdi, kadhito (crispy bhindi curry), potato curry and truckloads of different types of puris.

10. Confeitaria 31 de Janeiro, Panaji

CONFEITARIA 31

DE JANEIRO

PANAJI

Located in the gorgeous old Latin Quarter of Panaji, Fontainhas, the 80-year-old Confeitaria 31 De Janeiro is one of the oldest bakeries in Goa. The cozy little shop serves traditional Goan sweets and savouries like the moist date and walnut cake, the scrumptious bebinca, the creamy sweet rolls, the crumbly prawn risois and other teatime treats.

11. Kesar da Dhaba, Amritsar

KESAR DA DHABA

AMRITSAR

An iconic dhaba of Amritsar, Kesar Da Dhaba was established by Lala Kesar Mal and his wife in 1916 in Sheikhupura, Pakistan. It moved to Amritsar after the partition of India in 1947 where it was frequently visited by Lala Lajpat Rai and Jawaharlal Nehru. The dhaba’s velvety dal makhani, slow-cooked overnight and garnished with fresh creambefore being served, is legendary. The creamy palak paneer, stuffed parathas and the sinfully rich phirni are also a must-try.

12. Mitra Samaj, Udupi

MITRA SAMAJ

UDUPI

Believed to be almost 100 years old, Mitra Samaj is an authentic Udupi restaurant famous for its delicious dosas, bullet idlis and Goli Baje, also known as Mangalore Bajji. The eatery follows the Udupi tradition of temple cooking under which the use of onion, garlic and radish is prohibited. For those visiting this simple eatery for the very first time, the must-try items should also include Mangalorean Bun, Masala Dosa, Dakshin Kannada-style Khasta Kachori and badam milk.

13. Shaikh Brothers Bakery, Guwahati

SHAIKH BROTHERS BAKERY

GUWAHATI

Established by Shaikh Ghulam Ibrahim way back in the late 1800s , Shaikh Brothers Bakery rapidly became one of the most preferred bakeries in Guwahati, not only for the locals but also for the British administrators. It was also a favourite of Jawahar Lal Nehru and Indira Gandhi. According to a report in The Telegraph, cheese sippers from this bakery were regularly served on Nehru’s breakfast table (he was extremely fond of it) when he visited Guwahati.

14. Shri Sagar, Bengaluru

SHRI SAGAR

BENGALURU

Established in 1940s, Shri Sagar, better known as CTR, is one of the most famous restaurants in Bengaluru. Known for the filter coffee and its unparalleled masala dosas, Shri Sagar is Malleshwaram’s landmark thindi joint- the local lingo for small eating places that offer quick South Indian bites. Must-trys include the benne masala dosa and the feather light idlis.

15. United Coffee House, Delhi

UNITED COFFEE HOUSE

NEW DELHI

Established in the year 1942, United Coffee House holds an important place in the hearts of food lovers in Delhi. Located in Connaught place, it was one of the first few restaurants that offered fine-dining in the capital city. The place has retained its pre-independence antiquity and is still frequented by diplomats, bureaucrats and tourists. The indulgent menu, though, has evolved over the years and today offers a plethora of options – from international and Indian classics to the recently added Oriental cuisine.

16. Chafekar Dugdha Mandir, Nagpur

CHAFEKAR DUGDHA MANDIR

NAGPUR

Set up by Vasudev Govind Chafekar and his friend Narayan Sakharam Palkar in 1931, Chafekar Dugdha Mandir was a meeting point for freedom fighters of Nagpur. A functional eatery with a simple decor, the restaurant has a steady and loyal stream of customers which keeps it bustling with activity all day.  The eatery is famous for items like dahi misal, sabudana vada, shrikhand, khichdi, masala milk and the local favourite, piyush.

17. Glenary’s, Darjeeling

GLENARY’S

DARJEELING

Opened by an Italian named Vado, Glenary’s was later brought by the family of a local worker who became the manager here. The quaint bakery cum restaurant is over a 100 years old and is a hit with both locals and tourists alike. Known for its baking, the desserts at Glenary’s are par excellence. Do not miss their yummy apple pies, sticky cinnamon buns, fresh meat pies and Darjeeling tea.

19. Flury’s, Kolkata

FLURY’S

KOLKATA

Situated on Park Street in the heart of Kolkata, Flury’s was founded in the year 1927 by Mr and Mrs J Flury. This pre-independence tea room of the British has a beautiful old world charm and is famous for its rum balls, meringues with cream and a delicious English breakfast. Satyajit Ray used to visit Flury’s every Sunday morning for breakfast and is rumoured to have maintained a credit account at the eatery.

20. Bade Miyan, Mumbai

BADE MIYAN

MUMBAI

Opened in 1942, the Bademiyan Stall moved several locations during the tense pre-Independence years before finally settling down at Colaba in Mumbai. It was started by Mohammed Yasin who came to be known as Bademiya for his long flowing beard. The shop is famous for its spicy succulent kebabs and biryani, and is always jam-packed till wee hours.

21. Delhi Misthan Bhandar, Shillong

DELHI MISTHAN BHANDAR

SHILLONG

Located in downtown Shillong’s bustling Police Bazaar, Delhi Misthan Bhandaar has been serving the locals with mouthwatering sweets, savouries and a lot more since 1930. The dedicated sweets section serves arguably the best jalebis and gulab jamuns one can get in town. The shop entered its name into the Guinness Book of World Records in the year 2008 for frying the world’s largest jalebi ever that was 75 inches in diameter and 15 kgs in weight.

22. MTR, Bengaluru

MTR

BENGALURU

Founded by Parampalli Yajnanarayana Maiya and his brothers in the year 1924, MTR is a culinary landmark in Bengaluru. Serving wholesome fare that has its origins in the Udupi cuisine of the coastal Karnataka, MTR has quite a reputation for its high standards of hygiene and cleanliness. During World War II, a significant shortage of rice supply resulted in MTR inventing the Rava Idli, a much-loved breakfast dish of south India.

23. Favourite Cabin, Kolkata

FAVOURITE CABIN

KOLKATA

Best known as the haunt of the freedom fighters such as S C Bose and poets such as Kazi Nazrul Islam, the Favourite Cabin at 69B Surya Sen Street was founded in 1918 by Nutan Chandra Barua and his elder brother Gaur Chandra Barua. This unassuming tea cabin is north Kolkata’s oldest tea stall and has been quenching Bengalis’ thirst for chai and adda for over 94 years. The staple here is still the same even after all these years – hot tea, complemented by biscuits, cakes and different toasts.

24. Mahim Halwawala, Mumbai

MAHIM

HALWAWALA

MUMBAI

Joshi Budhakaka Mahim Halwawala is a little sweet shop, nestled in the bylanes of Mahim, that was started nearly 200 years back! The founder, Giridhar Mavji, used to sell a special halwa that gradually became extremely popular across Mumbai. Today, people from all over the country visit the shop to buy the famous Mahim Halwa. Unlike the traditional halwa, Mahim halwa is prepared by rolling out a cooked mixture of wheat, sugar and ghee in the form of sheets that is cooled and cut into delicate squares.

25. Aminia, Kolkata

AMINIA

KOLKATA

Specializing in traditional Mughlai cuisine of Eastern India, the restaurant is most noted for its special Biryani and Aminia Special. It was opened in 1929 on Zakaria Street opposite the Nakhoda Masjid and has now expanded to 12 outlets in West Bengal. Aminia Restaurant does not give franchises, all the restaurants are owned and run by the members of the family since decades.

26. Shri Mishrilal, Jodhpur

SHRI MISHRILAL

JODHPUR

Shri Mishrilal hotel is a famous landmark at Sardar Market Girdikot in Jodhpur, now better known as Ghantaghar or clock tower. Backed by Glorious saga of about 90 legendary years of being a traditional sweets craftsman.

It was in early 1927 Shri Mishrilal ji started a sweets shop with license of British government to sell Rabdi,Ghee Kachori and Kofta. He also used to sell soda sarbat in different flavours, which was imported from England. Then in 1960 Shri Radheyshyam ji son of Shri Mishrilal ji joined the business. He prepared a very special lassi and named it Makhaniya Lassi. Makhaniya Lassi is prepared with highly compressed curd wherein ingredients like cardamon, kewda, sugar and milk add to the taste of Makhaniya Lassi.

27. Irani Cafes, Mumbai

IRANI CAFES

MUMBAI

I cover this with a hint of nostalgia, because in my twenties, I loved to sit in an Irani cafe, and savour my favorite maska bun. I haven’t been to one for a long time. And I am also aware that only a few such cafes remain. Most of them are of 19th century vintage, and I came across a very interesting write up on them. Do read about this here.

28. Ali Hussain Sheermaal, Lucknow

ALI HUSSAIN

SHEERMAAL

LUCKNOW

Started in 1830 by Mohammadu – the Nawab’s khaansama – this is the oldest and most reputed Sheermaal shop in Lucknow. Sheermaal is a special type of roti that is cooked on Tandoor with some milk and Zafran sprinkled over it. The shop is presently run by Mohammadu’s sixth generation; many workers here are also attached with the eatery for many generations. Other specialty dishes available at Ali Hussain Sheermaal are Baaqar Khani and Gau Zubaan (available in various flavours). As the story goes, Nawab Nasiruddin Haider once summoned Mohammadu and asked him to serve a roti that he had never tasted. So, Mohammadu prepared Sheermaal for him and it was highly appreciated by the Nawab. Around 8,000-10,000 Sheemaals are prepared here every day during festivities.

29. Mambally’s Royal Biscuit Factory, Thalassery Kerala

MAMBALLY’S ROYAL

BISCUIT FACTORY

THALASSERY

The story of this Kerala bakery begins in 1880 when a business, Mambally Bapu, decided to set up his own bakery in Thalasserry. Three years later, Bapu was introduced to a rich plum cake by a British planter. Using that as a diving board, he came up with his own version (of what some say became India’s first Christmas cake) using a dose of a local brew with cashew apple and kadalipazham bananas. Ever since that day, Thalasserry became a hub for Christmas cake enthusiasts and Bapu went on to open more bakeries in different parts of the state. Every year, Thalassery is flooded with Christmas cake orders from expats around the world, to the extent that a lot of the bakeries only stock these boozy treats and don’t accept other orders for the month.

30. Allen’s Kitchen, Kolkata

ALLEN’S KITCHEN

KOLKATA

This is a tiny eatery is the namesake of a Scottish gentleman named Allen. But today it is operated by the Bengali descendants of the original staff running it. A limited but well-mastered ‘heavenly’ menu is offered to all those who visit. The shop has been pampering Bengali taste buds since 1887. Its signature dish is melt in the mouth prawn cutlet.

That’s all that I could list down. If you have any similar eateries to tell us about, which date to the British Raj and have stood the test of the time do share in the comments section.

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31. Laxmi Mishthan Bhandar, Jaipur

LAXMI MISTHAN BHANDAR

JAIPUR

The Laxmi Misthan Bhandar also famously known as LMB is an iconic restaurant of Jaipur. Although, it was established as a proper restaurant only in 1954, LMB draws its lineage from a group of halwais who were invited by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the ruler of Amber who when he founded the city of Jaipur in 1727, invited traders and artists from nearby towns and also a group of halwais, who set up a small sweet shop in Johri Bazaar.  These sweet shops were immensely popular and later one of the descendents of these halwais, Maliram Ghodawat, began this iconic brand. The restaurant is famous for it’s Rajashtani thalis and dishes cooked in pure ghee.

32. Ahdoos, Srinagar

AHDOOS

SRINAGAR

This 102 year old restaurant is famous for its Kashmiri Wazwan spread. Ahdoos was established in 1918 by Haji Mohammad Sultan who began it initially as a bakery. Over time, it became synonymous with the best of Mutton Kashmiri cuisine and is immensely popular. Other than their incredible meat dishes ,their tamatar paneer, the dum aloo, haak saag and walnut chutney are to die for! Undoubtedly, Ahdoos is a foodies paradise!

33. Britannia and Co, Mumbai

BRITANNIA AND CO

MUMBAI

If you are looking for authentic Parsi food in Mumbai, look no further than Britannia and Co for the most lips smacking delicacies. The history of this place goes back to 1923, when a Zoroastrian immigrant, Boman Kohinoor, opened a restaurant in the bustling city of Mumbai bringing the best of Parsi cuisine to his customers. The chicken Berry pulao and the Sali Boti are highly recommended!

34. Paragon, Calicut

PARAGON

CALICUT

Famous for it’s original Malabari Cuisine, this outlet in Calicut has also been ranked as India’s best restaurant for coastal cuisine by Times Now Foodie Awards . In 1939, under the patronage of Govindan Panhikeyil, Paragon restaurant was started by Govindan Panhikeyil in 1939 and has been successfully managed by future generations of the family! Appam and Stew as well as Fish Sole are highly recommended .

35. Cafe Madras, Mumbai

CAFE MADRAS

MUMBAI

Madras Cafe is truly a legendary restaurant and a valuable legacy from the pre independence days. It’s foundation was laid in 1940 and its popularity has remained unabated for more than 7 decades! To commemorate its 75th anniversary, Cafe Madras surprised it’s patrons with breakfast dishes priced at 1940 rates! People were delighted to eat their breakfast in less than a rupee . Twitter was flooded with snapshots of bills of customers who visited the restaurant that day. Read more about this here.

36. Hotel Hanumantha, Mysore

HOTEL

HANUMANTHA

MYSORE

Hotel Hanumantha, in the bustling lanes of the Mysore Mandi Mohalla began serving it’s patrons with delicious non vegetarian dishes in 1930. Chef Hanmanthappa would cook his delicacies on a wood fire, a practice being followed till date. Hotel Hanumantha and its many branches are still being run by the original family and it’s descendants! The Mutton Pulao is it’s most celebrated dish.

37. Mahamaya Restaurant, Guwahati

MAHAMAYA RESTAURANT

GUWAHATI

In 1918 the Mahamaya Restaurant was first established as an ordinary tea stall .Naroram Barman and his two siblings undertook a bullock-cart ride from Chamata, Nalbari to North Guwahati and then a ferry ride to cross the Brahmaputra to seek his livelihood in the city. This is how they began this century old tea shop. One side of the shop was for tea, biscuits, sweets, and paan-tamul whereas the other end cosmetics for the ladies.  A few years later seating arrangements were made for patrons. Serving simple fare like paratha sabzi, tea , cutlets, biryani, it has a steady stream of dedicated patrons who visit regularly! Read more about this unique place here

38. Parathe wali gali, Delhi

PARATHE WALI GALI

CHANDNI CHOWK, DELHI

The parathe wali gali is surely on every tourist’s to – visit list, in Delhi. The waft of ghee fried parathas will surely woo you to sample the amazing fare served here. More than three dozen varieties of parathas, will make it harder for you to choose which one you should sample!

A Brahmin family from Gwalior arrived Old Delhi in the nineteenth century, and in a dingy bylane called Dareeba Khurd, began selling Puri Sabzi combo. Borrowing from the concept of puris, they created stuffed parathas which were deep fried in desi ghee and served them with the same sabzis like aloo-methi, kele-sonth ki chutney and kaddu ki sabzi. They started a legacy in 1872 that has continued for generations. Some of the oldest shops have been running for as long as 120 years. Most of the owners put down their shutters and sold their businesses or moved into something more profitable. Today, between crumbling mansions, smoke drifts from four shops that remain, albeit losing lustre – Babu Ram Paranthe Wala, Pandit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan, Kanaihya Lal Durga Prasad and Babu Ram Devi Dayal. Despite many challenges, they’ve survived thanks to the rich history they carry.

39. Moti Mahal, Delhi

MOTI MAHAL

DELHI

Yes! Believe it or not, the Dal makhani , Tandoori chicken and the Butter chicken were invented right here! The history behind this restaurant is absolutely fascinating. Kundal lal Gujral, a young boy of ten living in Peshawar in undivided India, was forced to look for livelihood at a tender age . In a first of its kind experiment , he dug a tandoor in the middle of his kitchen and served tandoori fare to the people of Peshawar. After partition however, he had to move to Delhi. And he soon founded a small restaurant called Moti Mahal. This legendary chef innovated with techniques to bring the Dal makhani and Butter Chicken to the Delhi food platter!

40. Panchhi Petha, Agra

PANCHHI PETHA

AGRA

When I was young, our house was always stocked with Petha from Panchhi, Agra. We were frequent visitors to the Love City (what else do you call a city which is a symbol of true, eternal love) and tasted many other brands, but nothing could beat the pethas coming out of Panchhi. My father was such a huge fan of this vegetable based metabolism boosting sweet meat. Seth Pancham Lal Goyal, fondly called Panchhi started Panchhi Petha with just one store in 1946. While pethas have always been made in Agra, Seth Panchhi Lal’s immediately became known for their perfect flavour, balance of taste and purity. After the Taj Mahal, perhaps Panchhi could be the other icon of Agra.

41. Wengers, Delhi

WENGERS

DELHI

Venerable Wenger’s was opened by a Swiss couple in 1926, and has been baking up a storm ever since. Entering Wengers, you feel like you have entered an old time bakery shop. You are instantly surrounded by the aroma of freshly baked items in this very crowded place. It sells the most delicious cakes, sandwiches, biscuits and savoury patties, and continues to rank as the best bakery in town even almost a hundred years since its inception.

42. Kailash Parbat, Mumbai

KAILASH PARBAT

MUMBAI

A small kiosk selling pani pooris or water balls in early 1940s at Burns Road in Karachi had to close down its business post 1947 partition of India and travel all the way to Mumbai. The late Mr. Parsram Mulchandani, a chaat vendor with roots in Pakistan, settled down in Mumbai, setting up a small halwai shop in Colaba first, and later opening Kailash Parbat way back in 1952. His first menu was sparse — just pani puri and ragda pattice. The restaurant expanded its fare with the passage of time to appeal to all palates. Presently it is one of the top rated vegetarian restaurants in the country.

43. Husseny Bakery, Pune

HUSSENY BAKERY

PUNE

Husseny Bakery takes pride in being one of the first established bakeries in Pune. The story of Husseny Bakery began in 1932 when Late Mr. Mirdehghan. S. Murteza started the bakery in Bhawani Peth. The bakery exclusively supplied freshly baked goods to the Poona cantonment, a practice which continued even after the Independence. Subsequently, it shifted its operations to Taboot Street.
As most part of the bakery remains unchanged, visiting the bakery is like travelling through the time. The recipes have been passed down from one generation to the other, and so walking into the store, you will enjoy the same smell of freshly baked goods. Husseny Bakery enjoys a large and a loyal fan following, since three
generations, across the globe.

44. Cafe GoodLuck, Pune

CAFE GOOD LUCK

PUNE

Cafe GoodLuck is a popular Irani cafe-restaurant on the Fergusson College Road, in Pune. Established in 1935 by Hussain Ali Yakshi, it is one of the oldest cafes in Pune. Cafe GoodLuck is most famous for it bun maska/bun omelette and Iranian tea among the other dishes. The place is always crowded and especially popular among the youngsters.

45. Saralaya, Mangalore

SARALAYA

MANGALORE

In a time when it is increasingly difficult to buy a cup of tea under Rs. 10, a hotel in Sullia town of Mangalore sells meals for just that amount. Located in Shreeamapete, Hotel Ramaprasad was founded 78 years ago by Venkatesh Saralaya, who had migrated from Kasargod, Kerala. He started the eatery in a hut with a thatched roof and it came to be known as Saralaya Hotel after the owner’s name. Students who don’t have the time to go home for lunch are the most frequent customers. The affordable meal comprises of rice, sambhar, rasam, curry and buttermilk.

46. Lakshmi Restaurant, Dehradun

LAKSHMI RESTAURANT

DEHRADUN

Set up in 1944, Lakshmi restaurant is one of the oldest restaurants in dehradun located in paltan bazar, famous for South Indian delicacy. The outlet wears a simple restaurant countenance without any fancy decorations and yet thronged by both – its regular customers as well as people who are drawn to it by word of mouth.

47. Ameer Sweet House, Delhi

AMEER SWEET HOUSE

DELHI

Established in the early twentieth century in Bazar Chitli Qabar near Jama Masjid, Ameer Sweet House is widely known for mouthwatering sweets like balushahi, besan ke laddu, chamcham and gulaab jamun , as well as chhole bhature and pakoras. The bill of fare expands during Ramzan to include keema and khoya samosas and paneer ki jalebi.

48. Kallan Sweets, Delhi

KALLAN SWEETS

DELHI

Overlooking Gate number 1 of Delhi’s famed Jama Masjid, sits Kallan Sweets – a mithai shop that was set up by Mohammed Shaan in 1939. Their specialties include paneer ki jalebi, besides other festive delicacies such as khoya samosa, keema samosa and paneer ke pakode, but it’s widely sought after for its Habshi Halwa, which is a rich dessert made with milk, khoya, ghee, and wheat extract.

49. Chaina Ram, Delhi

CHAINA RAM

DELHI

This sweet shop in Chandni Chowk near the historical Red Fort – known for its Sindhi sweet meat specialities – was founded by Shri Chaina Ram in the year 1901, originally in a place called Anarkali in Lahore, Pakistan and later migrated to India post partition. Their specialties include ghewar (available during Holi season), pinni, sainiyo ki barfi and patisa.

50. Shyam Sweet, Delhi

SHYAM SWEET

DELHI

Shyam Sweet – established in 1920 by Babu Ramji in Chawri Bazar – is quite popular with not only its neighborhood, but also food lovers from Delhi’s outskirts, who drive up to enjoy its special pure vegetarian delicacies especially its Nagori Halwa and Matar Kachori. Bedmi Puri stuffed with lentils and paired with ultra delicious jeera-hing laden aalu ki sabzi, is a delicacy you will probably not find anywhere else in the walled city.

51. Old Famous Jalebi wala, Delhi

OLD FAMOUS JALEBI WALA

DELHI

Established by Late Lala Nem Chand Jain in the year 1884 in Dariba Kalan of Old Delhi, the Jalebiwala eatery serves piping hot, thick and juicy, freshly made jalebis in desi ghee, over coal fire using secret ingredients that make it uniquely drool worthy.

52. Makhan Lal & Sons, Kolkata

MAKHAN LAL & SONS

KOLKATA

Almost 200 years ago, a sweetmaker called Ram Chandra Das, hailing from Dubrajhat, Bengal would come all the way to Kolkata, to sell his sweets. He used to set up a temporary stall in the Pathuriaghata Haat to sell his sweets and in other days, used to ferry his sweets in earthen wares, by roaming around door to door in the neighbourhood, and sold them to the households of the surrounding areas. Within a short period, he managed to make a name for himself, owing to the fine quality of his sweets. He was succeeded by his son, Madhab Chandra Das. But the sails of their business caught wind, when Makhan Lal Das took over the reins from his father, Madhab Chandra Das. With the passage of time, the Haat at Pathuriaghata made way for a permanent bazar and Makhan Lal Das took the opportunity and set up his own shop in the market premises of Natun Bazar, which exists and prevails till this date. The shop is renowned for its delicious high quality traditional bengali sweets.

53. Bhagat Halwai, Agra

BHAGAT HALWAI

Bhagat Halwai – dating back to the Mughal Era – was founded by Lekh Raj Bhagat on the banks of the Yamuna, as a humble shop in 1795 in the present day Civil Lines, serving scrumptious and flavourful puri-sabzi, bendai (stiff puri), and sweets such as rabri (thickened milk), jalebi, and burfi. The use of cow dung and wood, instead of charcoal, as fuel was believed to have made the food tastier. It maintained high standards of hygiene, and the guiding principles of offering quality products and service have remained unchanged.
The present-day specialities of the brand are many and include laddoo, dry-fruit mithai, gujiya and other delicious offerings such as soan papdi, doda barfi, special doda barfi, and Karachi halwa.

55. K. C. Das Grandsons, Kolkata

K C DAS GRANDSONS

KOLKATA

Nobin Chandra – also known as the Columbus of Rasgulla – was a creative genius. He set up a sweet shop in 1866 in a tiny, obscure corner of Bagbazar in North Kolkata. The passion to create something of his very own haunted him. His ambition was to create a completely original sweet, that would bring new excitement to the Bengali palate. Inspired by the winds of Renaissance blowing in Bengal, he made small balls of casein (cottage cheese) and boiled them in hot sugar syrup. The result was a succulent, spongy sweet with a unique, distinctive taste. Nobin Das christened it the “Rossogolla” and a legend was born. The sweet went on to gain popularity and Nobin’s son K. C. Das introduced canning of the dessert so that it could be exported overseas with a longer shelf life. Nobin is also credited with the invention of the legendary bengali sweet Sandesh. Today, K.C. Das Grandson’s products are not only used widely in Bengal, but also exported to many countries like UK, United States, Bangladesh.

56. GHASITARAMS, MUMBAI

GHASITARAMS

Ghasitaram’s name has been synonymous with good eating for over 100 years that they have been in operation. The sweet shop was established in 1916 in Karachi, Pakistan. The company was started by the Late Ghasitaram Bajaj in Karachi, Pakistan. After the partition of 1947, his son Shri Goverdhandas Bajaj had to leave the sprawling business setup behind and move with nothing but his skills to earn his daily livelihood. The first retail set up was in Bibijan Street, Mumbai. The firm has now grown to many shop cum restaurants in Mumbai, and a resort on the outskirts of Mumbai

57. Ram Asrey, Lucknow

RAM ASREY

Ram Asrey Sweets was established in the year 1805 in Hazratganj Lucknow, and boasts of having served its delicacies to the last Nawab of Oudh, Wajid Ali Shah.  Ram Asrey features selection of rare sweet delicacies, some from centuries ago, and is credited with the creation of a unique dessert by the name Malai Paan or Balai ki Gilori.

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